Loving our natural hair comes with knowing some general attributes about it such as hair type, porosity, etc. Today, we will discuss hair types and clear up the mystery of the widely used hair typing system. Let’s first address Type 4 hair, universally known as afro-textured or kinky hair.

  1. Due to the coil of the hair shaft, Type 4 hair cannot lay flat on the scalp so it lacks moisture and relies heavily on a great moisturizing regimen to thrive.
  2. Hair’s true curl pattern can only be determined when hair is properly moisturized.
  3. Shrinkage is a huge part of having healthy Type 4 hair.
  4. Type 4 hair type and subcategories can either be soft & fine or coarse & wiry.  Therefore, hair texture (Soft or Coarse) does not determine hair type.
  5. Type 4 is actually the most versatile of all hair types because of the variety of styles it can hold.

Now we will identify the 3 subcategories of Type 4 hair and the products/regimen that best work for each.

See the chart below to identify your hair curl pattern (best identifiable in its wet state).

Image result for type 4 hair chart




4A strands have S curl patterns and it is the easiest of the type 4 hair to keep moisturized. This hair type responds great to “Wash and Go” so try an LCO (Liquid, Cream, and Oil) method while in the shower. While hair is dripping wet add a leave in conditioner, creamy curl enhancing smoothie, a gel for hold (so style last longer) and seal with a thick oil like Castor oil. This style should last 5 days with low maintenance.



4B strands have a Z pattern curl and have a lot more shrinkage than type 4A. This hair responds well to hand coils and shingling methods of moisturizing. Using the same LCO method but with more amount of each product, spend more time working products into the hair working with few strands at a time for curls to shine through. Check out the shingling method here.



4C strands have an even tighter z pattern curl which usually is not detectable unless in extremely close The LCO method will still work here as well. However include a thicker product and oil to combat dryness. This hair type also experiences the most shrinkage so using twist outs, braid outs, perm rods too to create your curls can help to also stretch and showcase this hair. 


Until next time,

Ruth Adewoye


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